by Catherine Walthers
It’s the warmer seasons, Catherine Walthers reminded us, that always get the glory when we think of the good eating on this Island. Maybe its the frenetic spirit of the beast that we all get lost in—the weeks-ahead dinner reservations and the regular lobster roll indulgences and the farm stands that seem to sag from the anticipation of endless picnicked salads to come.
But it’s the harvest season, into the winter months, that marks a quieter, less ostentatious kind of dining. The summer table’s finally been cleared, and we can take that first, wide look again at what’s around us.
So let’s marvel in the off-season’s true abundance of bay scallops; the fresh cheeses and the rich, warming desserts; the apples and squash and corn and carrots. And greens like kale, as Catherine says, that taste sweeter after a frost and better when they aren’t fight- ing off drought and insects. (And when we’re not fighting off the summer hoards to get our hands on them, we might add.)
This is a lighter harvest menu, for the nights when it feels like we’ve reached the darkest heel of the world, but our kitchen—by some kind of arcane, ancient magic—has bottled the day’s sun.