Sweet and savory
by Laura Silber
My first trip to France was spent visiting an old friend in the Bretagne village of Mordelles, not far from the historic city of Rennes. Despite the early winter cold, on my first morning we hiked through the dense forests of Val Sans Retour (Valley of No Return) which features prominently in the legends of King Arthur. By midday we had each worked up an appetite, so on the way home we stopped at a small creperie.
I had been excited to try the regional specialty, Galette Bretonne, the richly flavored buckwheat crepe my friend had been telling me about for years.
He ordered us cider and bowls of buttermilk, then translated the menu as clouds of hot steam billowed from the sizzling crepe irons on the counter. In the end I just let him order, which is always the best thing to do when eating with a local. The crepes were incredible, chewy, dark, and delicately crispy around the edge. I have never forgotten that meal.