Your New Squeeze

Citrus Cooler

by Moira Silva

Citrus Cooler

Tova Katzman

Twice weekly at the West Tisbury Farmers’ Market, Bucky Burrows and Suzanne Fenn serve up freshly squeezed juices from their Good Tastes booth.

Their juice stand appears at the end of the market, where crowds thin, live music is enjoyed from afar, and the vibe is pleasant. Shoppers shift from ogling ripe strawberries and bright sunflowers to seeking chilled, wholesome beverages.

For the past 28 years, Good Tastes has offered orange juice, lemonade, limeade and the sweet-tart citrus cooler, the stand’s signature drink. The citrus cooler is the ultimate dog day beverage: a blend of lemon, lime and orange juice, topped by a splash of diluted simple syrup. With its sunny color, it looks just like summer.

On a recent morning, I headed to the farmers’ market with my sons, and, under a fierce sun, we join their line, anticipating icy-cold citrus coolers. The line moves fast. Salsa samples, available in addition to the coolers and made with extra peppers and cilantro, are devoured. The couple works two old-fashioned juice presses as a crowd watches with delight, everyone appreciating, for a moment, the simple things in life. “It wouldn’t be the same to just pour lemonade from a cooler,” Bucky says.

The thirst-quenching citrus combination was invented years back, by a customer’s request, and Suzanne compares the end result to being offered three desserts. “What you really want is a little of each. You can have that in the citrus cooler.”

The rare special order is entertained. Sugar-free citrus coolers are not advised, but accommodated, provided customers bring their own water. A few repeat celebrity customers have their own quirky requests, like a well-known lawyer who gets his orange juice with a full squeeze of lime on top.

Lately, I’ve been seeing another generation behind the counter. Bucky and Suzanne’s teenage granddaughter, Bella, will occasionally assist with crafting the popular drinks. The couple hopes that one day Bella will take over the helm. But for now, it’s clear the two are in their element, as a happy customer drops by to give Suzanne a “Hello again!” kiss and Bucky a friendly wave.