Chocolate Ganache Brownie
by Samantha Barrow
When you visit Soigne (pronounced Swan-yay) in Edgartown, Puppy and Dede will be there, seven days a week, 11 months of the year, as they have been for the past 26 years. Entering their little nook of excellence, you won’t feel like you’re in a specialty store conceived of by someone watching market trends, but rather as if you have been let into an old-school DJ’s inner sanctum to peruse their record collection. They have tasted and selected every item in their line up of cheese, wine, pasta, spices, olives, vinegars, etc., and pride them- selves on providing items, like fresh saffron from Mallorca you can’t find anywhere else.
Pick up sandwiches for a picnic or lunch, like the sesame chicken breast with sweet and sour sauce on French bread. Or try one of the deli salads, such as the freshly grilled Island corn and feta salad. Give them a call to cater your next party. Just don’t think about leaving without their Ganache Brownie.
The remaining chunk of this two-inch- tall, dense, layered “brownie” I’ve been nibbling repeatedly sits fresh out of the fridge for this morning’s deliberations. “Brownie” is in quotes because this is no earthling’s brownie. It may have started as a brownie, one which excelled in the subjects of richness and mouthfeel, but then it went to the University of Ganache known on the streets of Paris as U Choc Butter- cream—got smeared with a heavy layer of that science, then dusted with confectionary sugar for its crown.
While it’s still cold, I shave a slice off the triple decker, and let the textures and flavors explore their potential in my mouth. If my taste buds had a visual, they would be 60s style technicolor swirls, pulsing on the screen of a movie with a Donovan sound track. My tongue catches hold of some new consistency that’s hard to name: Cacao nibs? Chocolate granules? Crystallized tears of Bacchus weeping with joy into the mixer?
I should have patiently waited for the brownie to come up to room temperature. Like a fine Scotch or red wine, it is best enjoyed as the chemical components move about more freely in mellow warmth.
But then, there is no more brownie. I can tell you from previous experience, that it just gets gooier and creamier, thereby smooth enough to coat every surface of every taste bud, if you can wait.
Soigne, 190 Upper Main Street, Edgartown. (508) 627-849. $5.50/square.